TUNING HELP

For those who are interested, I am going to ask to open a spot on here somewhere for Suspension and tuning help. I am really good at suspensions and can help you get it right. If you do need some help, I will help in any way that I can..... If you are looking for trans settings.......welllllllll

Please PM me or respond if you want to run some laps on XBox Live and I can crew chief you in test mode and we can get it right.

XMan4299
#77
Forza Continental Tire Challenge Series Founder

This is a great idea, especially for us newbies. I'll send you my tune for each track unless I see you on live, then we can run some laps. Laughing out loud is fine if you turn your mic off.

P.S. - I'm not too bad with the gearing, it's the other stuff that's like a jigsaw puzzle on a rubics cube. You change one thing and the rest change dynamically. Plus, to be a real pro, you need to tune for each track, I'm sure. Good thing the cars don't change. Certain of it is driving style, but not most, I would bet.

Thank you XMan for offering, this is the sort of help is always needed.

Yes this is a great idea. I may even sit in if you have a session going. There's always something to learn.

PiiHB, you have helped me immensely. Thank you for your time and effort. I can at least understand the basics of a front engine, rear drive, R class on a track such as Road Atlanta.

To help me (and hopefully others), each week, I'm going to post the specs that a Forza 3 tuning calc would give for the Porsche Cup car. Then, I'll try to find a snippet off the net about the tuning for that week's given track. Any insight and comment on how to adjust the generic calc tune would be wonderful. I'll try to do the same on the Monday endurance site, but my team manager, Xman, is holing my hand to a certain extent there. Plus, these Porsche's are a bitch...

Nurburgring:

Front: 30 PSI
Rear: 29 PSI

GEARING:
Adjust your Final Drive to just hit the car's maximum speed at the end of the track's longest straight.
Adjusting of individual gears and everything you wanted to know about gearing but were afraid to ask can be read about HERE

ALIGNMENT:
FRONT CAMBER = -0.9
REAR CAMBER = -0.9

FRONT TOE = 0.0
REAR TOE = - 0.1

FRONT CASTER:
Start Caster at: 4.6
(6.0 normally will be the max value you will use)

ANTI ROLL-BARS:
FRONT ANTI-ROLL BARS = 12.2
REAR ANTI-ROLL BARS = 25.8

SPRINGS:
FRONT SPRING SETTINGS = 397
REAR SPRING SETTINGS = 831.2

RIDE HEIGHT:
Adjust as needed.
Lower is better, but too low may cause excessive bottoming out.

DAMPING:
FRONT REBOUND STIFFNESS = 4.1
REAR REBOUND STIFFNESS = 8.5
FRONT BUMP STIFFNESS = 2.9
REAR BUMP STIFFNESS = 6.1

BRAKES:
BRAKE PRESSURE:
Start with 100%

BRAKE BALANCE:
Start at 47 % Front

DIFFERENTIAL:
ACCEL.= 25-50%
DECEL.= 25-50%
_______________________________________

The setup:
first, just a few basics thoughts:

Slow corners -> no need for aerodynamical grip
Slow corners -> high mechanical grip -> relatively soft suspension and anti-roll-bars
Slow corners -> not much camberangle required

Transmission: final drive ratio 3.45
1st 2.54
2nd 1.92
3rd 1.58
4th 1.30
5th 1.12
6th 1.03

I will say for this race, the track is very bumpy, so the ride height might have to go up a bit and you should run softer bump settings than normal.


Here's my guideline for tuning:

What I normally do to tune, is I take the weight and the weight distribution of the car and use them to get my initial spring rates.

2,653 lbs @ 40% front

Then I subtract the unsprung weight of the car (mostly wheel and tire weight)
Since this number isn't known, I say it's abound 40 lbs a corner, so -160 lbs

2,653 - 160 = 2,493 lbs

2,493*0.40 = 997.2 lbs - weight on the front wheels
2,493*0.60 = 1,495.8 lbs - weight on the rear wheels

Next I divide that number by 2 to get the weight at each corner.

997.2 / 2 = 498.6 lbs
1,495.8 / 2 = 747.9 lbs

Technically you should add some for the amount of aero downforce, but for me this game likes softer springs. Now these numbers are not set in stone, sometimes I'll lower the rear springs to get a little more grip out of the corners. Next I'll lower the ride height all the way down and see if the car bottoms out any. If the car is able to have softer springs I'll drop them down as soft as I can go. Keep in mind that normally when you soften the springs, you usually have to add more roll bar to the car.

Roll bars:
These are used to tune the car in apex of turns. If the car pushes in the middle of the corner, drop the front and raise the back. If the car is loose in the middle of the corner, add to the front and drop the back. I typically start with both at 18 and adjust from there. The Porsche seems to like softer roll bars. (at least to me)

Dampening:
The shocks should be used to tune the car in the entry and exit of the corner.
I usually set them at 8 on the rebound and 5 on the bump, then I use this chart to tune the car as I drive.



Camber:
Drive the car for a few laps and pull up the telemetry, the outside tire temps should never be hotter than the insides. Adjust the camber till this happens. Usually around -1.2 to -0.9 will work.

Gearing:
I've found that the gears from the real Porsche cup car work really well. Just adjust the final drive for each track. Sometime I'll only use 5 gears instead of all 6. Depends on the track.

Final Gear: Depends on the track, I use 4.10 as a starting point.
1st: 3.17
2nd: 2.13
3rd: 1.72
4th: 1.40
5th: 1.13
6th: 0.93

That's a good point boost. Running the real gears is a smart idea. Although for this game I've found certain things work better than real life scenarios. Especially with the gearing. Just throwing that out there.